I said goodbye to the galvanized compost bin yesterday. I got a lot of use out of it and it was a very easy way to deal with the kitchen scraps without animal issues.
Here it is in action:
Moving it to the lot we’re going to work was too much trouble, unfortunately, as was moving the hundreds of pounds of mostly finished compost inside it.
The biggest problem with this compost bin was it was very hard to turn. I just skipped turning it until it was pretty much finished, but forking it out of the bin was no joke. The sides are high and the compost was saturated with water from the endless rains. It was more like forking swamp muck than forking compost.
When I emptied it yesterday we spread it around some bananas, plus filled a hole in the yard. That area will be the most fertile spot in the yard for years to come, as I also buried a lot of bones my wife had been saving for stock she never got around to making.
Ah well, at least it didn’t all end up in a landfill.
Continuous composting is easy when you quit worrying about ratios and rules:
Stack it up as you have it, then let it rot.
That’s how I deal with the kitchen scraps and fine yard waste.
You’ve seen the big metal compost bin I use as a continuous compost digester. I don’t have to turn compost unless I want to, instead, I just throw it in as we have it and wait. Nature does the rest. And look at that beautiful finished compost! It’s amazing.
It’s not quite “instant compost,” but if you just keep throwing things in a compost bin, they will break down and give you great compost without work. Continuous composting means not waiting around until you get a big stack of greens and a big stack of browns at the same time. Just throw them in the compost pile as you have them. When the bin gets good and full, I dump it out onto the ground or a tarp and let it finish off. And that’s it. In the video, you’ll also see how I’m composting coconut husks – they hold plenty of water as they rot, hence my using them in the bottom of pots.
Composting is a simple process of letting nature do what nature does. We get plenty of rain so I don’t even bother covering the pile. Lots of food scraps come through our kitchen and I toss them all in, including moldy sandwiches and rotten meat. There are bones in this compost and I think that’s great. I still can’t get over the fact that people buy bone and blood meal but are afraid to throw leftover ribs into the compost. Come on, people! It just makes sense.
The tall metal bin we have keeps most animals out, so that hasn’t been a problem. And if a few want to snack in the night, well, they can go for it. Who am I to begrudge a beggar some bones? They’ll turn it into manure somewhere anyhow.
“After discarding some papaya in my compost, I have about ten plants growing out of the pile that are about three to four feet tall. Didn’t know what they were until I saw someone else growing them on their property. I will definitely pot them and bring inside before any danger of frost.”
Yep. I had a ton of papaya show up in my compost here. Every time I spread compost around a garden bed, I get dozens or even hundreds of little papaya trees springing up.
Let us now officially add papaya to the list of plants that grow better when springing from a compost pile.
Papaya join an elite group which includes such compost-loving favorites as tomatoes, melons and pumpkin.
One of these days I’m going to just make a big compost pile, turn it, water it, then let whatever grows on it be that year’s garden.
“I’ve got a lot of debris from the storm still, plus I’ll be cutting down some trees soon. What do you think is the best way to avoid exporting those nutrients and to reincorporate them into the soil? I was thinking on doing some hugelkultur beds, but I’ve never done one and might have too much material. Any recommendations on the hugel beds and other ways to make use of these material?”
Yes – I certainly have some suggestions.
Method #1 for Composting Storm Debris: Throw it on the Ground
“My dad and I started a food forest in his shady and infertile south Florida backyard. One weekend we piled up palm tree trunks, branches, logs, hedge trimmings, leaves, grass clippings and whatever else the neighbors were throwing out. The resulting stack of biomass was probably two feet tall and covered over a hundred square feet. In the middle and around the edges we planted fruit trees and edible perennials. Within a couple of months you could dig into the pile and find rich black soil, worms, and a wide variety of insects working together to rapidly convert that pile of “waste” into soil.”
This was what that mass of plant debris did:
Just piling up all the trunks and leaves and debris will eventually give you rich results.
Stack them someplace out of the way or put them in rough piles right around trees or anywhere.
This pile broke down wonderfully in a little more than a year.
When the sticks got brittle, I stomped on them. Just don’t do that if you’re in poisonous snake country.
Method #2 for Composting Storm Debris: Use Logs for Boundaries
I’ve also taken felled trees and chunks of trunk and used them to delineate paths in food forests.
It’s not always the prettiest method, but those hunks of logs keep the ground moist beneath them, harbor a variety of useful species, plus host fungi, which are an integral part of forest life.
Method #3 for Composting Storm Debris: Hugelkultur
TJ also asked about hugelkultur as a method for composting storm debris.
I must confess, I have never built a proper hugelkultur bed. I know it’s one of those super-popular things that permaculture gardeners do but I haven’t done one.
I did bury tree chunks and plant a jaboticaba on top:
That led to sinking soil and the need to replant the tree within a year.
I honestly don’t know how hugelkultur beds will work in Florida overall. Organic material deteriorates at a frightening rate and sandy soil is likely to wash away from the top of the mounds. It’s probably worth building one as an experiment but I wouldn’t bet heavily on a method which comes from a cold climate with clay soils.
And hugelkultur may not even be what many think it is.
2. Grow annual production while number one happens and/or growing short term perennials and nurse trees for later planting in other locations.
How do I know this? When I met Sepp in Montana in 2012 and watched him build about 4 linear kilometers of hugels, he told me so and I believed him.
I hear cries of heresy and blasphemy, but I am just telling you the way this system is actually used successfully. So strap in if you are upset now, indeed it gets worse from here. The big shocker is what happens next. One of them you may have a hard time believing…
1. The mounds over time sort of flatten and are left. At this point, the succession proceeds into long term perennial production. The key though is that a few seasons of annual cropping and short term perennials are used first. Generally in this case they remain bush, shrub, small tree, herbaceous and annual crop producers.
2. More often than above, gasp! The mound is at some point spread out and full on perennial systems are established or even grazing systems are boosted. This can produce astounding amounts of soil, the value of which if trucked in would be measured in 10’s of thousands of dollars per acre.
The primary purpose of hugels is building soil, production is of secondary concern. Getting production out of hugels makes the method practical but none the less, still secondary to the original intent. Very few edicts to the concept are even aware of why Sepp Holzer did hugels in the first place. Quite simply it was done because he had a ton of low value trees around and removing them was more costly than their value.”
If the primary purpose is building soil, the same can be done with much less labor than digging mounds requires. Throw the material in big piles and let it rot, then later spread it around. Florida’s hot and humid climate chews through most fallen trees in a couple of years, turning them into crumbly humus. If you build mounds, they are going to sink. Fast.
Method #4 for Composting Storm Debris: Biochar
Biochar is just charcoal making.
Charcoal has the capacity to hold onto nutrition and potentially act like humus in the ground. In sandy soils with high leaching, this is powerful. Humus disappears very quickly in Florida, and less quickly in colder climates, but charcoal is practically immortal.
I now add it to many of my compost piles for that very reason:
It will sit in the pile and soak up the good stuff, then later be spread around my gardens and trees.
If you have a lot of storm debris, just do something like this:
Then use that charcoal everywhere. Just don’t burn the trees into nothing – be sure you quench the fire and get the charcoal, as most of the good material will leave your property for the atmosphere if you let the fire go too long.
So – to answer the question “what’s the best method for composting storm debris?”
Any way that keeps the material on your land. Don’t give in to the convenience of letting the county take it or just burning it to ashes.
Trees are rich in carbon and other minerals that they’ve produced and mined from the soil, sometimes for generations. Don’t waste them. Even making islands of trunk chunks, leaves and branches around your fruit trees will greatly benefit the trees.
As has been said before “forests grow on the remains of forests.”
Use fallen trees to feed living ones and you’ll be surprised how they respond.
Earlier this week I posted a new video from the downhill pumpkin patch:
Though I pull in some good pumpkins, you can also see that the patch is under-performing – and I am not sure why. I should be getting a lot more. There are large areas yielding nothing.
All the hills were fertilized when the pumpkins started running. They’ve had lots of water and a good bit of sun in between, plus I kept the weeds down for the most part.
I am getting pumpkins, but many of these vines were grown from the seeds of fruit which were much larger than the ones I’m now pulling in.
Vine borers have sown up, but still – even the unaffected vines are mostly making 5-7lb fruit instead of 12-20lb.
My suspicion is that the soil here is not as good as advertised. I’ve been told again and again that the local soil is rich; however, I often had better luck with vegetables in my sandy North Florida yard.
If I owned the piece of ground I’m currently farming, I would dedicate myself to soil improvement via the planting of natural vegetative strips and chop-and-drop plants and trees, plus the addition of biochar and ashes.
I discovered with some exploratory digging that my sweet potato bed near the house is also a failure. It’s yielding a pathetic amount of small tubers, just like the previous bed I harvested earlier in the year.
I kicked tail growing sweet potatoes in North Florida but not here.
And I fed these beds with manure, compost tea, seaweed, compost and even some chemical fertilizer when everything else wasn’t helping.
I hit the local resort yesterday and took a little time to record a video sharing my ideas on using trees felled by hurricanes – I think you’ll enjoy it:
No, I haven’t given up YouTube yet!
I have been spending a lot of time writing, though, in lieu of making intensively edited videos. Turned Earth: A Jack Broccoli Novel isn’t going to write itself. I should hit the 40,000 word mark today. Jack has just discovered he has powers beyond that of your average gardener – but will he be able to use those powers for good?
“Treuer initially set out to locate the large placard that marked the plot — and failed.
“It’s a huge sign, bright yellow lettering. We should have been able to see it,” Treuer says. After wandering around for half an hour with no luck, he consulted Janzen, who gave him more detailed instructions on how to find the plot.
When he returned a week later and confirmed he was in the right place, Treuer was floored. Compared to the adjacent barren former pastureland, the site of the food waste deposit was “like night and day.”
“It was just hard to believe that the only difference between the two areas was a bunch of orange peels. They look like completely different ecosystems,” he explains.
The area was so thick with vegetation he still could not find the sign. Treuer and a team of researchers from Princeton University studied the site over the course of the following three years.
The ecologists measured various qualities of the site against an area of former pastureland immediately across the access road used to dump the orange peels two decades prior. Compared to the adjacent plot, which was dominated by a single species of tree, the site of the orange peel deposit featured two dozen species of vegetation, most thriving.”
“You say I your compost guide to use cooked food!!! Isn’t that just asking for rats and maggots to come in invade giving them a invitation! Also I didn’t know you were in the USA lots of the things your talking about mean nothing to me so sorry I’m deleting your guide.”
You can’t win them all, but really – this is just silly.
Why would you NOT use cooked food in your compost? Do you think rats are particularly attracted to cooked vs. non-cooked food? No, rats love just about anything you throw their way, as do maggots.
Soldier fly larvae are maggots and they are great composters!
And rats? Come on. Bury things deeply, as I do in my “melon pits:”
Other gardeners are picking up the melon pit idea as well:
That’s an easy way to add cooked food to your compost if you’re really afraid of rats and other vermin.
As shared in my book Compost Everything, this method of feeding plants allows you to stretch fertility a long, long way and re-use “waste:”
Many people have written in to say how much they appreciate this simple method for creating liquid plant fertilizer.
As Gardener Earth Guy commented on the video:
“This is the absolute best garden trick I’ve learned in a long time. My banana have gotten giant, sweet potato have rope vines, and loquats are getting giant. What doesn’t get a chop n drop goes in the bin.”
You can throw in weeds, fruit, kitchen scraps, urine, manure… just find organic matter and throw it in. I like a wide mix. This is a pretty simple batch, only containing moringa, compost, cow manure and urine. I did get some Epsom Salts after making the video and will throw that in next. A 55-gallon drum like this can easily feed 10,000 square feet of corn for a growing season. I know – I’ve done it!
It beats making “normal” compost and having to spread it all around.
I mean, I’ve been known to drink coffee all day and sometimes chain-smoke my pipe while writing, then have a cocktail before bed… but pharmaceuticals? Not for me! CLEAN LIVING, man!
For years I’ve advocated the use of urine as a fertilizer. It’s truly an excellent plant booster and a free source of garden fertility. I believe God designed it that way on purpose.
Go ahead, water your plants!
Yet the question always comes up – “what if a person is on drugs?”
As Sheila wrote earlier this week:
“Something to remember for your viewers. If they are on any medications they may want to forgo the pee until they are off the drugs. It all comes out through the kidneys.”
Yeah, well… PeeWee Herman had something to say about that:
Don’t do drugs!
Actually, on second thought, maybe most of the “drugs” questions aren’t really about crack.
Some pharmaceuticals aren’t a lot better, though.
Anyhow, let’s think this through.
Drugs in Urine – Bad for the Garden?
Well, that’s a tough one.
Your plants are likely to be unaffected by the drugs that pass through your urine. I don’t like the idea of adding pharmaceuticals to the garden, but in my completely unscientific opinion, I would say it’s pretty unlikely that beta blockers, for instance, are going to mess up your beets.
Or Oxycontin render your carrots too sleepy to make roots.
Or heroin cause your tomatoes to start playing grunge music, then die at age 27 in a filthy hotel room.
Oh, sorry – I guess heroin is no longer a “legit” pharmaceutical. That was a few years back.
Anyhow, yeah… the drugs are targeted at human physiology, which is quite different from that of plants.
“After the active ingredient in most birth control pills has done its duty preventing pregnancy, it begins a second life as a pollutant that can harm wildlife in waterways.
Not only is ethinyl estradiol quite potent — creating “intersex” fish and amphibians — but it is very difficult to remove from wastewater, which carries it into natural waterways.
Since women around the planet take the pill, this is a global problem. The European Union is the first entity to seriously consider mandating the removal of ethinyl estradiol, also known as EE2, from wastewater. However, as researchers pointed out in Thursday’s (May 24) issue of the journal Nature, the question of whether to remove the pollutant is not simple.”
Personally, I think banning the pill is a great idea, but that’s unlikely to happen any time soon.
The question of using urine as fertilizer when drugs are in play is a personal one. I think it’s blown out of proportion.
Are you using urine as fertilizer, then feeding the produce to other people? Well, that’s NASTY!
Seriously, though – if it’s your own garden and you’re already taking these toxic substances medications for various reasons, I don’t think the little bit you might get back in your salad is a big deal. I wouldn’t want to take any pharmaceuticals if at all possible and wouldn’t want to eat produce contaminated with them, but if I were already on, say, meth proprotein convertase subtilisin kexin type 9 inhibitors, I wouldn’t worry about a tiny bit of it coming back to me via the garden.